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part of the world – Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan – and we also came across Grass Wren, Golden- crowned Tanager and Andean Siskin. Death road The journey south to the city of Mocoa was a bumpy ride, to say the least. Earning the name El Trampolin for this reason alone, this narrow, unsurfaced road of rock and rubble, with its hairpin bends and sheer drops, zig-zags through the Andes for nearly 70 km and has earned the reputation as one of the most dangerous roads in the world. There have been numerous deaths from vehicles falling off. Nevertheless, with appropriate stops, it offers a unique birding experience against a backdrop of stunning scenery. With such a broad range of species to be seen on a daily basis, it was a road we returned to after establishing a hotel base in Mocoa for the following three nights. Undoubtedly the most iconic bird associated with El Trampolin is the fiery, flame-coloured Andean Cock- of-the-rock, which we were lucky enough to encounter in three places along the route. Demanding careful negotiation, mountain streams gush, unconstrained, across the road at irregular intervals and in addition to birds, such as White-capped Dipper and Torrent Tyrannulet, frog tadpoles and numerous species of butterflies were present in and around the roadside splash-pools. Soaring over the densely forested high peaks, raptors were also very much in evidence and included Black Hawk-Eagle and Roadside Hawk, sharing the airspace with Blue-and- white Swallows, as well as Chestnut- collared and White-collared Swifts. Lower down, closer to the city, were both Crested and Yellow- headed Caracaras, and a variety of some more lowland species, including Lemon-browed Flycatcher, Speckled Chachalaca and the brightly coloured Golden-eared Tanager and Gilded Barbet. Ride to Rica Our final destination was Playa Rica, a small Amazonian community which is reached by boat after a short journey on the wide reaches of the Putumayo River from Puerto Asís, where local fishermen pull enormous, ‘man-sized’ catfish from the water. With the main aim of preserving the local ecosystem, Playa Rica is a reserve owned and inhabited by indigenous people, who expertly manage the riverine jungle environment, maintaining trails and welcoming ecotourists to the area. We set off in a ‘voadeira’ – a long, narrow, part-roofed, motorboat – reaching our destination in less than 30 minutes. The journey along the river, under open skies, provided new birds, among which were White- winged Swallow, Grey-breasted Martin, Ringed Kingfisher, Blue- headed Parrot and Plumbeous Kite. From the moment of disembarkation onto the muddy, tree-shaded bank, new birds came thick and fast within this lush tropical environment, in which the mid-morning temperature had already hit the mid- twenties. Weaving its way past isolated, stilt-mounted, wooden dwellings, the path passed open areas of scrub and grassland, producing Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, Lettered Aracari, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Long-billed Woodcreeper and the bizarre-looking Amazonian Umbrellabird. Back along the river, near Puerto Asís, a damp, undulating field of rank grass appeared ablaze as a small group of feeding Scarlet Ibis stood out ludicrously against the green. It was a fitting finale to a highly enjoyable Amazonian adventure and an exciting visit to this vibrant South American country. ■ Acknowledgements I would like to extend my thanks to ProColombia for organising and facilitating the trip to Colombia, to Manakin Nature Tours for their expert guidance and cordiality, and to Swarovski Optik for the invitation to the launch, and extended trial, of their new compact ATC spotting scope. Mike Alibone Contact Mike via email (alibone.mike@ gmail.com ) or Twitter (@bonxie) for lectures on birding in Colombia. LUIS EDUARDO URUENA www.birdguides.com World of Birds • 2023 13 Further information PROCOLOMBIA: www.procolombia.co Manakin Nature Tours: www.manakinnaturetours.com Swarovski Optik: www.swarovskioptik.com/ gb/en/birding Two super birds of the lower slopes were Gilded Barbet (left) and Lettered Aracari (this photo). ALEJ PINTO MIKE ALIBONE Scarlet Ibis was a vivid way to end a fantastic trip to Colombia.