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GREAT DESTINATIONS COLOMBIA www.birdguides.com World of Birds • 2023 11 ❯ MIKE ALIBONE A Neotropical paradise C olombia. Until recently, mention of this country rather unfairly conjured up a vision of drug cartels, paramilitary groups and guerrillas in conflict with themselves and with the government. But this is a perception far removed from reality. Much has changed and in recent years the nation has opened up. Its vibrant culture and welcoming atmosphere have made it an appealing destination for tourists and birders alike. And Colombia has much to o er. Stunning scenery, from spectacular Andean cloudforest, towering above winding lowland valleys, to the deep densely vegetated jungle of the Amazon basin. This Neotropical paradise supports the highest biodiversity on the planet, the avian element of which includes a list just shy of 2,000 species, making Colombia the ‘go-to’ South American birding destination. At an elevation of 2,640 m above sea level, Bogotá, the country’s capital, sits on a plateau surrounded by the high peaks of the Andes, quickly and easily reached by car from the city’s international airport. Our itinerary allowed a day’s exploration of these mountains, shortly after arriving from the UK and before heading south to several key birding localities. Leaving the city below, the road north weaved and climbed up through elevated hillsides that were largely given over to grazing and general agriculture. In this setting, frequent roadside stops provided us with views of Great Thrush and the ubiquitous Black Vulture, numbers of which had gathered in fields and were loafing in bare, stunted treetops. Eastern Meadowlarks were also feeding close to the road, as were Chestnut-collared Sparrows. Ascending further, the road became increasingly narrow as we entered the cloudforest. At a height of 3,500 m, a significant drop in temperature was evident as we climbed out of our vehicle to explore the immediate area and it wasn’t long before we were rewarded with some species typical of the habitat we were now in. Following the discovery of our first hummingbird, a Glowing Pu eg, the list began to build nicely with the appearance of Golden-fronted Whitestart, Glossy Flowerpiercer, Red-crested Cotinga and Rufous- browed Conebill, among others. Notably eye-catching, though, was a group of Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers – a striking mixture of red, black and blue, seemingly flashing on and o as they passed through the roadside scrub. The build-up of low cloud, ushering in showers and a further chill in the mountain air, preceded a slow descent back to Bogotá and our flight, early the next day, south to Pasto in the Colombian Massif. Overlooked by Galeras, the most active volcano in Colombia, the city The stunning cloudforests of the Colombian Andes (main image) support a mesmerising array of birdlife, including Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager (below). With close to 2,000 species recorded within its boundaries, Colombia is the world’s leading nation for bird diversity, in part due to the extraordinary range of habitats it supports, from sweltering lowland jungle to high-mountain plateaux. Mike Alibone recently visited to explore. JOSH JONES